Bought two of these knives and did background reviews before purchasing them. First let me say that I bought two, one to experiment on and another to keep in reserve for actual survival use. Like the LMF II also produced by Gerber, the Bear Grylls knife pommel is separated from the tang in the handle. Other reviewers have not stated this. Second, we experimented with the blade and pommel to test their strength. We drove the knife into a dry alder log, then swung a splitting maul hard against the pommel several times. The pommel remained in tact and the blade was driven in. It didn't crack or bend. After extricating the blade (quite a job)we inspected it for chips as well as the tip. Held up fine. Next we punished the blade by placing it on an anvil and driving the splitting maul down on it to see if the blade would fragment or break. We did this to test the steel quality and the tempering process used in its manufacture as it is made in China and Chinese knives have a so so reputation at best. Well it seems they've improved their production technique. Struck twice with the blade flat against the anvil, nothing happened. The blade also holds up very when struck with a piece of wood as a baton to cut through smaller trees in constructing a shelter. The serrated edge is useful in producing tinder for fire and is better at cutting some surfaces that others. Very good knife for the price. As for the sheath, it is much more civilian friendly than that of the LMF II. The sharpener is good and our test with the fire-starter holstered in the construction of the sheath showed this to be as effective as any on the market, although some reviewers have complained it is too short. All in all this is a good to excellent survival knife. I would like it if they increased the blade width to that of the Buck Nighthawk Bravo and had a similar quality steel to the Bravo or the LMF II. Perhaps they could also use these standards in producing a second Bear Grylls Ultimate knife with a Besh Wedge blade. The whistle is a little chinsey but okay.
OK, I'm not going to "review" Bear Grylls, or the packaging. Just the knife/sheath. A lot of folks say that the steel used isn't as good as ??? (whatever they prefer) BUT, At one time I am sure it was state of the art steel for knife blades. I find it more than adequate for a survival knife. No, I didn't go into the back yard and try to cut down any 18" oak trees or split 2 cords of firewood for the winter. I have a chainsaw and a log splitter for that. I didn't frame an apartment complex with the pommell driving 16d nails into 2x4's. I have hammers for that too. I did start a small fire with the Ferro rod and knife notch. The whistle is a bit cheesy, but better than nothing. The combo blade of drop point/serrations is OK and can be a blessing in the right situations where one might need either one. Blade out of the package wasn't razor sharp, but would slice your finger if you wanted. Doubt I would shave in a "situation" anyway. I touched it up anyway. I didn't like where they had the lanyard so I moved it to the ferro rod and tucked it into the strap at the base of the sheath. While I don't see the inverted ferro rod just falling out, it will keep it attached if it ever did get knocked off.All in all, I would say this... The knife is a very good package of what would be the basic SURVIVAL tools needed to carry with you. It would sure beat not having anything or any way to start a fire. I do know that the first version of this knife had pommell problems but it seems Gerber has fixed that and I hope those who bought that version have gotten a newer replacement. I do like seeing Bear Grylls actually using this very knife in the new 2011 TV season. This knife will do exactly what it is intended to do. Provide a person with the very bare minimum of tools to survive alone if needed. This is a good deal for what you get under 40 bux.
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12/07/2011
The 31-000751 Bear Grylls Knife, Serrated Edge Review
In the past many months I've bought and field tested about a half dozen or so combat / survival knives. For total "72 hour kit" readiness, this is my pick. Like most jack-of-all-trades items, it may not excel at all jobs, but for one knife to have, this is a good pick.
+ Full tang - the metal of the knife is a straight solid piece of metal front to back, the metal is also pretty nice thickness for strength and wound production if needed.
+ knife - whatever Gerber is doing with their knife steel, keep doing it, the edge is great, sharpens nicely, stainless steel, blackened coating for rust protection and ease of use.
+ Serrations - hard to re-sharpen (without right equipment) but hard to live without when cutting rope / canvas / hide / thin steel or aluminum (helo / airplane fuselages), etc.
+ Drop point - best for sharpening, stabbing, plunging and some light digging, gives an even balance and thrust to the knife.
+ 3 lash points - with some rope (550 para cord -don't leave home without it) you can tie the knife to a decent stick to make a spear, with the serrations, you can even make up a pole-saw used to cut high branches or fruit from trees. The drop point is also best with a spear for even thrust.
+ rubberized handle might not wear forever, but the grip is good and works when wet. It may cause more blisters after a few hours of work, but you need to survive and you can run silt on the rubber and make it less sticky on your skin. (note - lash it tight if you need to make a spear otherwise it will flex itself loose). Note: has some + bright colors, which might help you find the knife in low-light.
+ Hammer pommel - the back of the knife has a checkered pommel good for hammering work, also imagine you were using the knife as a can opener, you place the tip on the can edge and hit the back (pommel) to open the lid, move another 1/2" and re-set your strike, etc... My zombie combat knives have a pointed chisel pommel - good for glass breaking, but the hammer pommel is a good tool option.
+ small but good fire steel - makes a shower of sparks, you need fire to survive usually. Bonus: can be used as a night time flare (close range attention-getters in rescue situations). For longer term camping or survival, get the bigger fire-steel or magnesium blocks, but for a few days, it's enough.
+ multi-position sheath - can be mounted on your gear horizontal or vertical. Not weapons grade hardware, but again, for the 72 hour knife, good enough. safety strap to keep the knife in place with a little rough handling.
rigid sheath - protects the knife and you, bonus: lash point for gear tie downs, also removable to expose the diamond sharpener. I _really_ like the grip and retention of the sheath.
+ speaking of which, diamond sharpener - the coarsest diamonds sharpener I've used, I guess it at about 300 grit. I cringe to use it for finish work on a nice knife, but it will work great to take out nicks, burs, and put an edge back on the knife.
~ whistle - poor quality cheap plastic, but it will work, and if you need a whistle, buy another great whistle. remember you're shopping for a knife here.
+ Lanyard - if your hand fits, it can keep your knife from dropping - I'm a believer in the lanyard, especially at night.
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+ Full tang - the metal of the knife is a straight solid piece of metal front to back, the metal is also pretty nice thickness for strength and wound production if needed.
+ knife - whatever Gerber is doing with their knife steel, keep doing it, the edge is great, sharpens nicely, stainless steel, blackened coating for rust protection and ease of use.
+ Serrations - hard to re-sharpen (without right equipment) but hard to live without when cutting rope / canvas / hide / thin steel or aluminum (helo / airplane fuselages), etc.
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+ rubberized handle might not wear forever, but the grip is good and works when wet. It may cause more blisters after a few hours of work, but you need to survive and you can run silt on the rubber and make it less sticky on your skin. (note - lash it tight if you need to make a spear otherwise it will flex itself loose). Note: has some + bright colors, which might help you find the knife in low-light.
+ Hammer pommel - the back of the knife has a checkered pommel good for hammering work, also imagine you were using the knife as a can opener, you place the tip on the can edge and hit the back (pommel) to open the lid, move another 1/2" and re-set your strike, etc... My zombie combat knives have a pointed chisel pommel - good for glass breaking, but the hammer pommel is a good tool option.
+ small but good fire steel - makes a shower of sparks, you need fire to survive usually. Bonus: can be used as a night time flare (close range attention-getters in rescue situations). For longer term camping or survival, get the bigger fire-steel or magnesium blocks, but for a few days, it's enough.
+ multi-position sheath - can be mounted on your gear horizontal or vertical. Not weapons grade hardware, but again, for the 72 hour knife, good enough. safety strap to keep the knife in place with a little rough handling.
rigid sheath - protects the knife and you, bonus: lash point for gear tie downs, also removable to expose the diamond sharpener. I _really_ like the grip and retention of the sheath.
+ speaking of which, diamond sharpener - the coarsest diamonds sharpener I've used, I guess it at about 300 grit. I cringe to use it for finish work on a nice knife, but it will work great to take out nicks, burs, and put an edge back on the knife.
~ whistle - poor quality cheap plastic, but it will work, and if you need a whistle, buy another great whistle. remember you're shopping for a knife here.
+ Lanyard - if your hand fits, it can keep your knife from dropping - I'm a believer in the lanyard, especially at night.
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